Cheddar Gorge Rock Climbing

Everything You Need To Know About Rock Climbing At Cheddar Gorge

If you’ve ever driven to Cheddar Gorge, you would have noticed the stunning canyon that you pass through to get there.

And if you haven’t been there before, you’re in for a treat. The area is known for its fantastic rock climbing, stunning cheese, and mysterious caves.

Cheddar Gorge is located in Southwest Somerset near the village of Cheddar.

The gorge is made from limestone and features over 500-1000+ climbs to sink your teeth into, making it a trendy area among climbers.

Cheddar Gorge can be split into three sections that feature plenty of crags; these three sections are called:

  1. North Side
  2. South Side
  3. And Blackrock Quarry

One of the great things about Cheddar Gorge is how easily accessible the area is and the variety of climbs each crag holds.

Honestly, there’s something for everyone!

What does it look like?

Location/Parking

Cheddar Gorge is located just outside of the small town Cheddar, which is Somerset, UK. Its North Side is owned by The National Trust, with the South Side being owned and Administered by the Marquess Of Bath’s Longleat Estate.

The area became famous for many reasons: the cheddar cheese made in the caves or people exploring the caverns themselves.

But the main reason people come to visit this stunning location is the breathtaking gorge that carves through the area.

The gorge brings climbers from all over the UK to experience the magnitude of sports climbs the area offers.

It’s thought to have anywhere between 500-1000+ climbs at your fingertips. So it’s easy to see why this is regarded as one of the climbing heavens of the UK.

When it comes to parking, you have plenty of options along the Gorge. Unfortunately, these parking spots are not free. To park along the gorge, you can expect to pay around £3.50-£5.00 for the whole day.

To make things worse:

The parking spots for £3.50 fill up very quickly. So you’ll have to get there early if you want to get your place.

If you’re planning to stay at Cheddar Gorge for the weekend or maybe longer, then you have many hostels, B&Bs, hotels, and camping spots that you can check out.

The great thing about staying in these locations is they often come with parking, so you don’t have to spend extra money storing your car.

Most of the places are within walking distance of the gorge, which makes it super accessible.

If you’re on a budget, make sure you phone around to get the deal that suits your budget; as I said, there’s plenty of options out there.

The last thing I want to mention is about summer and spring.

During this season, some parts of Cheddar Gorge get blocked off due to nesting birds. So, make sure you check what’s going on before you head down there.

They don’t block off the whole area, but if you’re going for a specific climb, it’s best to check it’s open beforehand.

Good Climbing Spots

I’ve told you a little bit about the area, but I haven’t told you any spots to hit up yet, and that’s what I want to do in the section.

The area is home to nearly 600 routes and 16 crags split into three zones. Yep, that was a bit of a mouthful, but it shows you the true scale of Cheddar Gorge.

One of the great things about Cheddar Gorge is how versatile the crags are; there’s pretty much something for anyone, no matter what location you hit up.

In this section, I’m going to talk about what the North Side and South Side of Cheddar Gorge have to offer its visitors:

North Side

The North Side of Cheddar Gorge is the lefthand side of the gorge when you’re looking up from the small village of Cheddar. It’s home to 17 limestone crags which have a mixture of sports climbing and trad climbing, so you can choose what style you want to tackle on the day.

Some of the most notable crags of the area are:

  • Heart Leaf Bluff
  • Overshoot Wall
  • French Pinnacle
  • And The Remnant

If I’m honest, every crag could go on this list, but these were four favourite areas to climb.

Overall the North Side is home to over 275 climbs that vary in height from 10 meters to 20 meters.

And when it comes to difficulty, you also have a fantastic variety. Most of the climbs are between 5c+ and 7b+, but there are also many more challenging or easier climbs, depending on what you’re looking for.

South Side

When you’re standing in the Village of Cheddar, the South Side is located on the right side. If you have a compass with you, it’s the side of the gorge that points south.

The south aide also has 17 crag areas for you to climb and features over 285 routes for you to check out.

If you’re looking for some big climbs, this section is for you. They range from 10 meters to some routes being well over 200 meters.

The most notable areas for me are:

  • Sunnyside Terrace
  • Castle Rock
  • High Rock (not for the faint-hearted)
  • Horseshoe Bend Buttress

Again, you could put more areas on the list, but these are the stand out areas for me.

You have a great mixture of grads, with some of them feeling harder than they are due to the exposure at High Rock. On average, the routes range from 5b to 7a+, but you can find routs on either side of the average. 

Where’s Good For Beginner to Advanced Climbers

In this section, I want to introduce you to some of the best spots for beginners to advanced climbers. Here, I’m going to pick some climbs from North Side and South Side for you to take a look at:

  • Beginner North Side: Brass Monkey HS 4a – Trad Climb
  • Beginner South Side: Viper Crack VS 5a – Trad Climb
  • Intermediate North Side: Das Goot, Yah? 6b – Sport Climb
  • Intermediate South Side: Branchwalker 6b – Sport Climb
  • Advanced North Side: Who’s Line Is It Anyway? E4 6a – Trad Climb
  • Advanced South Side: Crow E3 6a – Trad Climb (It’s a massive climb, not for the faint-hearted)