If there’s one location that should be in the back of everyone’s mind, it has to be Lundy Island. If you haven’t heard of the island before, then you’re in for a treat.

It’s renowned as being one of the Climbing meccas of the UK due to the stunning location, views, Wildlife (The Lundy Puffin) and some of the best climbing in the British Isles.

The island of Lundy is known as Satan’s granite finger, which points northwards in the Bristol Channel. On a clear day, you’ll be able to see the island from the North of Devon as you look across to Wales.

Getting a spot on the island can be pretty tricky due to the lack of accommodation on the island and the limited number of spaces on the ferry.

But…

If you do manage to get your spot on the island, you’ll have over 1,000 routes available to you, split over 20 crags, which include:

• The South Coast
• Old Light
• Alpine Buttress Area
• Needle Rock Area
• The Egyptian Slabs Area
• The Devil’s Slide Area
• Beef Buttress
• And many more

The best thing is…

There’s a great variation of climbing grades on Lundy, so you can find grades to suit everyone. Another great thing about Lundy Island is that the rock is Granite, which you don’t get to climb very often.

What does it look like?

Location & Parking

As mentioned earlier, Lundy is located in the Bristol Channel, just North of Devon. To get to the Island, you have a few options:

1. Ferry
2. Kayak (Not for faint-hearted)
3. Helicopter
4. Private Boat Charter

When taking the ferry across the island, make sure you book in advance, especially during peak season. The tickets are limited, so you could miss out if you leave it too long.

The ferry you need to catch is called MS Oldenburg and runs from Ilfracombe and Bideford from late March to late October. As for the cost of the ferry, you can expect your return journey :

• Adults: £85
• Children under 16: £45
• Infants under 4: £20

If you want to know more about getting to the island via ferry, you should check out the Landmark Trust website, which details more about cancelled sailings if the weather is too rough to sail.

If you’re looking for an exciting journey to Lundy Island, you might want to take a Helicopter ride across the channel. The helicopter is a 7-minute ride and provides you with stunning views across Devon.

But of course, it does cost quite a bit more:

• Adults: £149
• Children under 16: £82
• Infants under 2: £20

If you want to know more about taking this journey, you can’t check out this link; it will detail everything you need to know.

If you want to kayak there, most people use a tour company, unless they are good paddlers, the problem is, sometimes the weather conditions don’t permit you to travel across the sea.

When it comes to parking, you’ll have to leave your car in Devon, which can you find close to the ferry; just make sure you ring the parking lot to see if you can leave it overnight.

As for accommodation, you have B&Bs and some camping spots, just make sure you book everything in advance; there’s limited space on the island.

Good Climbing Spots

Okay, we know more about the island, but what spots should you take a look at while you’re on your trip?

Well, in this section, we’re going to be giving you some of the number one climbing spots on Lundy Island to make your life easier.

Let’s take a look:

The South Coast Area

You’ll find The South Coast Area, well, on the south coast. It’s home to two main crags called:

1. Damocles Buttress
2. Kistvaen Buttress

Most of the climbs in this area tend to be on the easier side, so if that’s your level, or you’re just looking for a warm-up, it should be a good location for you.

The Devil’s Limekiln Area

It’s another area at the south of Lundy, but slightly more to the west of The South Coast Area. In the area, you’ll find five stunning crags, including:

1. Leaning Buttress
2. Focal Buttress
3. The Devil’s Limekiln

You have a great variety of grades in the area, ranging from S-E6+, so you should have a great day climbing here.

The Devil’s Slide Area

You’ll find the Devil’s Slide area on the Northwest side of the island. The site is home to five crags and has some of the best climbs in the area.

While climbing, you have stunning views across the ocean as you climb the rugged Granite rocks. When it comes to grades, you have a good mixture, so you should be able to find something at your level.

The good thing about climbing is this location is it’s open all year round, so you don’t have to worry about it closing while you’re there.

Where’s Good For Beginners – Advanced

If you’re wondering which climbs you should give a go while you’re there, we’ve made a quick list of a few of our favourites. Check them out:

• Beginner The South Coast Area: Kistvaen Buttress – The Washing Machine VD
• Beginner The Devil’s Limekiln Area: Hidden Zawn – German Bight Size S
• Beginner The Devil’s Slide Area: Starship Zawn – Klingon VD
• Intermediate The South Coast Area: Kistvaen Buttress – Lawrence Duracell HS 4b
• Intermediate The Devil’s Limekiln Area: The Devil’s Limekiln – Flashing Into The Dark HVS 5a
• Intermediate The Devil’s Slide Area: The Devil’s Slide – The Devil’s Slide Direct Finish VS 5a
• Advanced The South Coast Area: Kistvaen Buttress – Clea HS
• Advanced The Devil’s Limekiln Area: The Devil’s Limekiln – The Exorcist E3 5b
• Advanced The Devil’s Slide Area: The Back Of The Slide – Redspeed E2 5c