Glen Coe is located in western Scotland, just south of Ben Nevis and is known for being one of the most beautiful Glens.

The Glen Coe valley is very steep-sided and features stunning waterfalls, beautiful trails, and some great climbing.

If you’ve never been to Glen Coe, you’re missing out. While you’re there, you’ll be welcomed to fantastic scenery that will take your breath away.

When it comes to climbing, the area is split into three locations and features around 205 routes for you to check out:

• Aonach Dubh
• Buachaille Etive Mor
• Stob Coire Nan Lochan

While walking around these areas, you’ll be able to to the remains of the great mountain range that stood there nearly 400 million years ago. What we see there today is evidence that shows a colossal volcano that collapsed on itself.

The majority of rock climbed in this location is made up of Granite, Slate, or Quartize. But let’s take a look at how to get to Glen Coe and where to park while you’re climbing.

What does it look like?

Location & Parking

One of the most noticeable towns near Glen Coe has to be Fort William, mainly due to its proximity to Ben Nevis.

You’ll find the Glen Coe climbing area just south of the town near the Blackwater Reservoir on the A82 road. The proximity with the A82 highway makes the climbing areas very accessible, with just a small hike to the crags.

While driving down the road, you’ll have your breath taken away as you navigate through gorges and valleys while passing by stunning lakes.

In the local area, you’ll have around 205 routes to stick your fingertips to, but Glen Coe isn’t just for people looking to climb.

It’s also a hotspot for hiking, mountain biking and much more, so if you plan to spend a week there, you’ll have plenty to do.

When it comes to parking, you have quite a few options along the way, which the Trust runs. Parking your car will cost you £5 unless you’re a member, then you get parking for free.

For a membership, it will cost:

• Adult: £5.25 per month
• Senior (60+): £4.65 per month
• Young person (16 to 24): £3 per month

The good thing about purchasing a membership is that you also get access to some castles, palaces, and gardens for free.

But…

If we’re honest, it’s probably not worth getting the membership unless you plan to go there quite often.

Good Climbing Spots

As we mentioned earlier, Glen Coe is split into three sections, and it’s these areas that we want to speak about in this section.

You’ll find the vast majority of routes are located in Buachaile Etive Mor, but there are some noticeable routes in the other sections.

One of the best things about climbing in Glen Coe is the range of climbs you find there. That being said…

Most of them are huge climbs, so if you’re new to multi-pitch climbs, this might not be the place for you.

Anyway, we digress, let’s take a closer look at the areas:
Aonach Dubh
Aonach Dubh is one of the most northern crags in Glen Coe and just south of the A82. It has six main routes on the crag and ranges from 35 meters to 170 meters in height.

The style of climbing is trad, so you’ll have to make sure you bring a good amount of equipment with you if you want to make it to the top.

The three most noticeable climbs on the crag are all graded E1-E3, so it’s not a place to venture to if you’re a beginner.

That being said, on the east side of the crag, you have a few climbs that are graded around the S region, which can make your life a bit easier.
Buachaille Etive Mor
The Buachaille Etive Mor area is located to the west of Glen Coe and just of the A82 road, and it’s where you’ll find the majority of routes here.

The area is home to around 196 routes for you to try out, which are spread out over nine crags, some of which include:

• North Face
• Blackmount Buttresses
• North-East Face
• Creag Na Tulaich

The great thing about these areas is how diverse the climbing routes are. There’s a vast mixture of grades and heights so that you can find something for any climbing level.

One thing to note is the climbing routes are incredibly high, which some people may find slightly daunting.
Stob Coire Nan Lochan
You’ll find Stob Coire Nan Lochan just south of Aonach Dubh, which does mean the approach takes longer than the other areas.

This area only features five routes, with come of them being rock climbing and the other being alpine climbing, which gives a little variation to your day.

If you’re looking to mix up your day, this is an excellent location to check out.

Where’s good for beginner through to advanced climbers?

Okay, you know a bit about the area, but where should you go climbing if you’re a beginner or an advanced climber?

Well, this is what we want to clear up in this section; let’s take a look:

• Beginner Buachaille Etive Mor: North Face Slab – Lagangarbh Chimney D -Trad Climb
• Beginner Aonach Dubh: East Face – Rowan Tree Wall VD – Trad Climb
• Intermediate Buachaille Etive Mor: North Face Slab – Dinnaeken VS – Trad Climb
• Intermediate Aonach Dubh: East Face – Weeping Wall Route S – Trad Climb
• Advanced Buachaille Etive Mor: North Face Slab – Playmate Of The Month E3 6a – Trad Climb
• Advanced Aonach Dubh: Trapeze E1 5b – Trad Climb (It’s a massive climb, not for the faint-hearted)